Oh yes the wonderful who am I section and why should you continue reading…. Well the easy answer is I’m just another nobody with too much free time on my hands thus allowing me to create a blog and further fill up cyberspace with ramblings of my supposed adventures or my ideas on the right way of doing things that are probably differentfrom your idea of doing things. I mean lets be honest, my main target is climbing (at least for now) and as far as climbing goes there is a very definite lack of a standard, many right ways to do things and many wrong ways but no one clear authority to set in stone what is right and wrong thus leaving the entire vertical world victim to opinion. Yes there are factions like the AMGA and IMGA out there trying to write the rules of getting high, but even they have their short comings in creating a standard. Especially when not everything they promote is as solid as they’d like or claim it to be. Afterall their way is how some climbers started doing things based off what they deemed logical and then MAYBE created a lab test to support, while lab tests are seldom on par with real world due to uncontrollable X-factors. Prime example of this is DMM’s recent drop testing of nylon vs Dynema slings in their tower, great data was produced however the test was conducted with a fixed 80kg weight that will act differently than a flailing body shock loading the end of the drop, thus an X-factor… Regardless that’s neither here nor there as I’m supposed to be telling you who I am.
for starters I am a climber in every sense of the term, I started climbing in my early teenage year and recently have been coming to terms with being a bit old school in most of my methods and ideas. I’m also the son of a rope rescue instructor that let me tag along on training days dating back to my earliest memories. Past that I spent 5 years of my life as a Boatswain’s Mate In the Coast Guard further increasing my understanding of rope work and the physics involved. After leaving the service I wandered to Colorado for a bit trying my hand as a climbing/ski bum only to take a serious injury forcing me to question my future and head off to Utah for a lil college. Due to college I’m now an unemployed commercially rated helicopter pilot that turns to climbing to pacify my frustrations with life, only to find myself climbing more and more, like any good addiction there just isn’t enough to satisfy the devil. Climbing isn’t a high-end hobby or time killer, plain and simply it’s a life style.
Haley Climb Run Lift Mom
Sam Stone Heart
Reality calling on the Diamond
Hearing the cracking overhead followed by the all too familiar sound similiar to a helicopters rotor, I don’t look I just tuck in as close to the wall as I can get and wait. The wait where a fraction of a second becomes an eternity, waiting for the carnage to end, the waiting for the unknown of the future yet to come, until it becomes the past. Finally the loud slap two feet to my side as the chunk of ice hits the rock exploding into further fragments shooting all around me as I watch the chunks descend down the path I had come up, I call out ICE!! Wait a second then call down to Jordan, making sure he is still with me and hear him call back that he’s good. Then it’s back to business as I slide the gibbs back down the working part of the rope holding the brake that’s running through a pulley attached to the gibbs in a modified Z drag setup, pull up hard giving an assist to Jordan below to help him conquer the moves that the pack is determined to refuse him of. Its pitch 4 of the Casual Route on The Diamond, and so far its business as usual for such a fine day amongst reality.
I do not under any circumstance claim to be a professional climber, any method or idea I discuss in this blog will be just how I do things and why. That being said if you like what I have to say I challenge you to digest it before accepting it, if you don’t like it then discard it like the cheap walmart quality crap you consider it to be and continue doing things how you deem appropriate. I am only human after all and have come to my ways due to experience and never taking anything for granted, when I come across differing ideas I take the time to research them and really digest the material before just jumping on the band wagon. I challenge you to do the same, if you feel I’m completely wrong I will happily discuss things, but be forwarned your way being right just because you say so doesn’t fly with me, ie back it up. after all it is climbing where backing things up so they are redundant is a prime focus.